Bearded dragons are generally docile, and their aggressive displays are rarely seen in captivity. It is reported that even wild bearded dragons will sometimes allow themselves to be picked up without a struggle. Popular as pets, bearded dragons or “beardies” are moderately sized lizards native to Australia. They are not inexpensive to care for as they have, like many other lizards, strict nutritional and environmental requirements that need to be met for them to thrive. With an adult size of 18-24 inches (reached by about 2 years of age), a good sized tank/cage will be required. The expected life span of a bearded dragon is anywhere from 4-10 years, although with good attention to nutrition and the ideal environment, the high end of that range should be expected. However, they are social and easy to tame and handle, and show a range of fascinating behaviors that make them interesting to watch. Food In the wild, bearded dragons are omnivores, eating a mixture of invertebrate and vertebrate prey as well as plan material. In captivity, they should be fed primarily an insect diet, primarily crickets, with a variety of other cultured insect prey. They are prone to impaction of their digestive system, and the chitinous exoskeletons of insect prey can cause problems. This is especially true of crunchy bugs like mealworms – so it is best to feed these in limited quantities. Feeding insects right after a molt will help reduce the chance of an impaction as the exoskeletons are not as tough. Crickets also should not be too large, especially for baby bearded dragons (a rule of thumb: no larger than 1/3 the size of the dragon’s head, and no longer that the distance between its eyes). Pinkie mice are also an acceptable food item for adults, and do not pose the problems with impaction that insects do. Insects should be gut loaded (fed nutritious food that is then passed on to the lizard) prior to feeding, and lightly dusted with a calcium supplement (with no phosphorus), and with a multivitamin about once a week. In addition, they should be fed a mixture of green leafy vegetables, orange fleshed squash, carrots, other vegetables, and some fruits. The plant portion of the diet should be about 20-30% of the diet. Feed in a shallow bowl, although leafy vegetables can be clipped to the cage furnishings for snacking. Typically, they should be feed daily (more frequently as babies), and given as many insects as they will eat in 5-10 minutes. Veggies can be left in the cage all the time (changed daily, of course). Commercial diets are becoming available – but so far the long term success of these diets is not well known. I feel that feeding a varied diet is preferable, so if these diets are used they should probably not be the sole source of nutrition. One caution: do not feed fireflies (lightning bugs) as these are believed to be highly toxic to bearded dragons! If any wild caught insects are used beware of pesticide contamination. Water Water should be provided in a shallow dish, such as a shallow jar lid. Misting is also advisable as dragons are designed to get their moisture primarily from their food and licking dew drops. However, do not mist too much as to make the environment wet or humid. Housing Bearded dragons come from dry, arid areas, and are semi-arboreal, often observed climbing on rocks and branches. Therefore, a cage should be set up with a dry substrate, hiding areas (at each end of the temperature gradient, and rocks and branches to climb on. The branches and rocks should be securely placed so that neither they nor the dragon falls while climbing on them. Many people use sand (washed play sand, not silica sand) as a substrate, although some use paper towels, indoor/outdoor or reptile carpet, or paper. Avoid corn cob or walnut shells as substrate.If sand is used, feces can be scooped out daily, but the cage will still need a good cleaning/disinfecting several times a year. Many owners construct their own cages from wood and welded wire, which is acceptable especially as it often allows more room for the dragons. For a single bearded dragon a bare minimum of a 40 gallon tank will be necessary, but bigger is better. A secure lid will also be necessary. Temperatures Cage temperatures are also extremely important. A temperature gradient should be provided, as well as a basking spot at significantly higher temperatures. The gradient should be provided end to end and also vertically (by arranging a basking spot on a branch or rock off the bottom of the cage). The lower end of the gradient should be about 76 F (24 C), and the higher end 86 F (30 C) , with a basking temperature of 90-100 F (32-38 C) . Heat should be provided via an incandescent light or ceramic heater (make sure a ceramic socket is used) – experimentation with wattage and distance from the cage can be used to provide appropriate temperatures. Place thermometers in the cage (at either end and where the lizards bask) to monitor the temperatures – do not rely on estimating temperatures! Night time temperatures can fall to approximately 70 F (21 C). If needed, supplemental heat can be provided using an under the tank heating pad or heating strips. This may be necessary at night if the room temperature is very low. Avoid heating overnight with a light, as a consistent light-dark cycle (12 – 14 hours light) must be provided. Using the lights on a timer is the best way to ensure a consistent cycle. Handling Bearded dragons are generally docile, and can be easily handled with minimal socialization or effort into taming. It is important to scoop them up under the belly and support their belly in the palm of your hand with your fingers gently curled over the body. Their nails do get sharp, and should be trimmed regularly. They can be
Category: Veterinary Topics
Lizards
As a rule, only certain lizards are good for beginners. Many species have fairly complex care requirements for heating, lighting and diet. Some are quite delicate and difficult to care for, and others get quite large and aggressive. There are a few species that are quite hardy and easy to tame and others that are not.
Reptiles
People with limited living quarters may find that reptiles such as lizards or turtles fit perfectly into their lifestyles. Before deciding on a reptile, learn as much as possible about them and their needs. Poisonous snakes and certain reptiles should never be kept as pets. Ask your veterinarian about the suitability of a particular animal before you make your decision. There are many things to consider before committing to a reptile as a pet. Finding out if a Pet is Legal Where You Live Many areas have enacted laws pertaining to keeping reptiles. Some are general and some are quite specific; in many places any reptiles that are considered dangerous (venomous snakes, alligators, etc.) are illegal but some places are even more restrictive (for example, in some states all consticting snakes including ball pythons are illegal). Salmonella Risks and Prevention All reptile owners need to be informed about Salmonella infections. While the risks shouldn’t keep most people from keeping reptiles since with the proper management the risks are minimal. Still, owners should be aware of the risks, and the US Centers for Disease Control recommends that certain risk groups should be careful about contact with reptiles and amphibians. The Importance of Light and Heat Many problems with keeping reptiles can be traced back to not providing the proper environmental conditions, particuarly heat. Proper lighting is also important for many reptiles. The equipment to provide the proper heat and light to captive reptiles is often quite expensive, but is absolutely essential to keeping pet reptiles healthy. It is important to find out exactly what conditions your reptile needs and never cut corners when it comes to meeting those conditions! Why Choose Captive Bred Reptiles There are numerous reasons why you should pick a captive bred reptile if at all possible, as explained here. How to Pick a Healthy Reptile It is important to keep in mind that depending on where you get a reptile, it may be very stressed, dehydrated, and prone to illness. Here are some items to look for when buying your reptile to increase the chances of picking out a healthy pet reptile.
Handling & Restraint
Handling & Restraint Improper handling may cause serious, life-threatening injuries. Fractures and dislocations of the back, most often resulting in paralysis of both rear legs, are the most common injuries. These injuries occur when rabbits are suddenly frightened and attempt to escape from a small enclosure. A rabbit’s spine is relatively lightweight and fragile. When a rabbit becomes frightened, it violently struggles by powerfully kicking its back legs. The lightning-fast movements of the rear legs cause overextension of the lumbosacral (lower back) region of the spine, which frequently results in fractures or dislocations. One should never try to overpower a struggling rabbit. If a rabbit violently resists physical restraint, it should be immediately released and approached later when it has calmed down. A soft-spoken, relaxed approach with rabbits works well. Covering the eyes and lightly stroking a rabbit will usually result in a hypnotic-like trance that often renders them less prone to panic and injury. Rabbits should never be picked up by their ears. If you are concerned about being scratched by the claws, place a towel over the rabbit’s back and wrap it around the body to restrain all 4 feet before picking up the rabbit. An alternative method of picking up a rabbit involves sliding one hand under its breast bone and grasping both front legs between the fingers of this hand. The other hand is then gently worked under the rear quarters to fully support them as the rabbit is lifted upwards, in the same manner as cats are held.
Food & Housing
Food Feeding pet rabbits is easy because nutritionally complete and balanced commercial pelleted diets are readily available. One of these pelleted diets and fresh water are all a pet rabbit requires. The pellets should be offered at all times unless overeating and obesity have become problems. Clean, fresh water also should be available at all times. The pellets should be as fresh as possible when purchased and should be purchased in relatively small quantities. The pellets should be stored in the refrigerator to prevent premature spoilage. Pellets that will probably not be used within 2 months of purchase should be frozen immediately after purchase. Refusal to eat rancid pellets is a relatively common cause of inappetence among rabbits. Fresh water should be offered daily, either in a bottle or in a heavy ceramic dish that cannot be easily overturned. Many hobbyists find the hanging drop-style bottles most satisfactory. The water container, regardless of the type used, should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected at least every 1-2 days. Good quality hay, grass, alfalfa or clover and/or grass clippings should be offered daily. Some researchers believe this practice reduces intestinal problems and the tendency to pull out and chew on hair. Other food items (lettuce, spinach, alfalfa sprouts, carrot tops, beet greens, carrots, apples, etc.) can be offered in small amounts daily. These food items should not be offered in larger amounts because they are water-rich and lack the nutrient density of the pelleted diets. Furthermore, many rabbits develop a preference for these items over pellets if they are offered in large quantity. Some rabbit owners provide salt licks for their pets, but experts do not regard this addition as a necessity. Many rabbits love to gnaw and chew on their cage and on items within the cage. A well-boiled roundsteak bone (marrow removed) and/or small dog chew toys are often accepted as challenging gnawing substitutes. Many veterinarians recommend adding pineapple or pina-colada yogurt to the daily diet. Most rabbits willingly accept the yogurt, especially if they are introduced to it at a young age. Yogurt not only promotes and maintains the normal bacterial flora within the digestive tract, but the pineapple contains an enzyme (papain) that is thought to help dissolve any hair that has been eaten. Rabbits engage in relatively uncommon but normal behavior when they deliberately eat small, soft, moist (often mucus covered), light green fecal pellets directly from the anus. These special night stools are especially rich in protein, vitamins and minerals. Rabbits must obtain these nutrients in this fashion. This behavior is most often carried out in the early morning hours and is rarely observed by rabbit wners. Sometimes, however, they choose not to eat the night pellets, and you may notice these slightly different droppings in the morning. Housing Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors. Indoor rabbits should be confined to a suitable enclosure when their activity cannot be adequately supervised. A roomy wire cage with at least one-half of the floor’s surface area covered with Plexiglas or washable towels is recommended. The Plexiglas or towels provide relief from constant and continual contact with the wire floor, helping to prevent hutch sores on the feet. A water bottle or ceramic crock, food dish and a litterbox should be provided for the rabbit inside the enclosure. Under no circumstances should rabbits be allowed total freedom within the home. Rabbits love to chew and can be very destructive to household furnishings. Furthermore, they can be seriously injured by biting into telephone and electrical cords. Like cats, rabbits can be easily trained to use a littterbox in the home. If the rabbit has already selected an area for elimination, the litterbox should be placed in this location. It helps to place some of the rabbit’s fecal pellets in the litter box to encourage its use. Rabbits housed outdoors should be confined in roomy wire cages with Plexiglas covering about one-half of the floor’s surface area. The wire mesh should be just large enough to allow fecal pellets to drop through. A water bottle or ceramic crock and a heavy food dish should be provided. Adequate shade and a hiding spot should be provided as well. Rabbits are typically anxious, wary animals and are easily frightened. This is especially true of newly acquired pet rabbits and rabbits kept for reasons other than as pet. A concealed area into which these rabbits can retreat when they feel threatened is necessary to prevent injury that would result from excessive and futile efforts to escape from the cage. Hiding provides a safe alternative to useless and often injurious escape efforts. Shade must be provided to prevent heat stress or heat stroke. All rabbits, even those housed indoors, are especially sensitive to high environmental temperatures. Adequate shelter must also be provided against wind, rain, snow and ice.
Rabbits
Rabbits make wonderful pets. They are fluffy and soft, respond well to handling, and can learn to use a litter box. There are even different breeds of rabbit! Rabbits make wonderful pets. They are fluffy and soft, respond well to handling, and can learn to use a litter box. There are even different breeds of rabbit! For example, some have straight ears, some have floppy ears, some are normal size, and some are dwarf sized. Rabbits can live for 5 – 10 years. Rabbits have very strong hind legs and sharp claws. They also have a very light skeleton. If you handle your bunny improperly, he may kick his legs so hard that he breaks his back! When you carry him, always support his rear end. If he struggles, put him down, until he is quiet. If You Choose a Pet Rabbit You should make sure that you are purchasing a healthy bunny. It is best to select a young bunny. He should have clear eyes and a nose free of any mucus. The bunny should be curious and friendly. Check to see the bunny has been spayed or neutered. Most are breeders and pet stores do not alter their pets. You will want to have your new friend spayed or neutered between 4 and 6 months age. An altered pet will reduce the risk of that famous bunny reproduction and will prevent certain health and behavioral problems. In the United States, bunnies do not typically require vaccines, but be sure to check with your veterinarian to confirm the protocol in your area. Bunnies do, however, require vaccines in the United Kingdom. They always need annual check ups and fecal tests for parasites.
Barns to Pastureland
As a general rule, a particularly fine-coated horse, or one that is in hard work, needs to be stabled during cold periods. Hardier horses can live outside all year, provided that they are supplied with adequate shelter. If you are to get the best from your horse, it is vital that you provide him with a happy, comfortable and safe home environment. This applies whether he is kept in a horse barn or in a field. As a general rule, a particularly fine-coated horse, or one that is in hard work, needs to be stabled during cold periods. Hardier horses can live outside all year, provided that they are supplied with adequate shelter. Many owners favor the combined system, where a horse lives out during the winter days, but comes into the stable on the cold nights. Similarly, during the summer, many horses can benefit from coming into the stable during the day time if they have a tendency to put on too much weight because of the long grass, or are particularly aggravated by flies and insects. A horse in hard work may be better kept in a stable where he can be easily accessed for work and where owners can ensure that feed and care is being administered correctly, under the close supervision of the caregiver. Often times horses in training are heavily blanketed during the winter months and do not develop a hair coat that is heavy enough to keep them warm outside. Whichever method you choose, your horse’s comfort and safety should be of paramount importance. Horse Barns It is generally considered that the best form of stabling is a loose box where the horse has the freedom to move, turn around and lie down. The absolute minimum sizes should be 3 x 3.5 m (10 x 12 ft) for a pony and 3.5 x 4.25 m (12 x 14 ft) for a horse. Never compromise on space! Although many of today’s modern stables are made of wood, as they are cheaper, brick is warmer and not a fire hazard. Non-slip flooring is essential. Ideally, opt for a floor made of concrete or rubber. Bedding is very much a matter of personal preference. Most owners use either straw or wood shavings, depending on availability. If a horse has a dust allergy, it is best to use paper. A useful added extra is a kicking board where a horse that kicks out can be prevented from damaging either himself or the structure of the stable. Fixed lighting in a stable is useful (although not essential) if you intend to do any stable work in the evening. Switches should ALWAYS be out of the horse’s reach with lights well out of reach or covered with metal mesh. Bolts on doors should, ideally, be horse-proof, although as an extra precaution a kick-over bolt can be installed that is sufficient to deter any budding Houdini! Fittings should include two tie rings, one at eye level for the hay-net and one at chest level, to tie the horse up. Mangers are sometimes built into the structure of the stable. However, buckets that hang over the door can be purchased if no suitable structure is available. Some stables have automatic water dispensers, which are convenient, but they also make it difficult to monitor the horse’s drinking patterns. Pastureland There should be approximately 1.5 acre for every horse or pony that is living in the field, although this can be slightly smaller if horses are turned out for a shorter period. Fencing should be made of a safe material such as post and rails and should be at least 1.3 m (4 ft 6 in) high. Hedges are generally safe, although they should be regularly checked for holes that would look appealing to a mischievous pony. Fresh water should always be available, either in the form of a running stream or in a suitable container. A shelter is also a useful addition to a field; it provides a windbreak in the winter and a fly shelter in the summer. All fields should be checked regularly for gaps in fences, poisonous plants and any litter that may be eaten by your horse. It is vital to remember to check your horse or pony at least once a day to ensure that he has not injured himself in the field. The key to success, when deciding upon the type of accommodation that’s right for your horse, is to ensure that he is happy, safe and warm. A horse that needs to be stabled permanently will almost certainly enjoy an hour or so in an appropriate field to let off steam. Similarly, a horse that always lives out may appreciate having the warmth of a stable in times of extreme cold.
Food & Nutrition
If you are uncertain about what your horse should be eating, talk with your veterinarian or ask to be referred to a reputable equine nutritionist. From your point of view, as the caregiver, it is important to familiarize your horse with being handled-and of course, it is always gratifying to have a horse with a clean and smart appearance. Feeding your horse correctly is a vital element of effective horse care. A horse’s natural grazing pattern is ‘eat a little and eat often.’ Mimicking this, as closely as possible, is a good way of ensuring a healthy, nutritional balance. Food has the same purpose for horses as it does for humans. It provides energy and warmth. It stimulates growth and the vital strength required by the body to repair itself. For a normal balanced diet, aim for two-thirds carbohydrate, one-sixth protein and one-sixth fat. Factors that Influence Equine Nutrition A horse that is able to graze freely during the summer months and is not in hard work probably requires little supplementary feeding. Throughout the winter months, however, when grass provides very little nourishment, horses should be fed supplementary hay on a regular basis. Hard feeds (sometimes referred to as complete feeds, or grain supplements) should be fed to horses that are in hard work, or are particularly young or old. Generally, the following elements affect the amount and type of horse feed: Time of Year – All horses require more feed in the winter to maintain a suitable body temperature. Workload – Horses in hard work require more hard food such as oats, grains, barley and pelleted feed. Temperament – A high-strung horse is best fed cooling mixes, whereas a more sluggish horse may benefit from heating feeds such as oats. Size – Pay attention to your horse’s weight, rather than size, when determining the amount of feed required. A horse should be fed approximately 2.5% of its body weight daily. Age – Bear in mind that a horse’s digestive system functions at its best between the ages of eight and twelve years. Younger horses require more protein for growth, whereas older horses require food that is easily digested. Quality of Grazing – A horse will graze continually, given the chance! It is necessary, therefore, to take into account the amount of time that your horse spends out in the field and the quality of the pasture or grass. Horse Feeds Hay is the main bulk food given to horses. It acts as a grass supplement for stabled horses or for horses on poor grazing land. Hay contains essential minerals and proteins and aids digestion. Compound Feeds (complete feeds) in the form of either pelleted feed or mixes contain the correct balance of all essential nutrients. Several mixtures are available for horses engaged in different levels of work, or at different stages of life. This type of feed is particularly suitable for one-horse owners or inexperienced owners. Oats are an excellent horse feed as they contain the correct balance of nutrients. However, care is required, as some horses tend to become over-excited on this type of feed. Barley adds flesh to horses and can often tempt a horse that is not, for whatever reason, eating sufficient bulk. Maize/Corn is a very fattening, high calorie feed and should be fed with caution. Sugar Beet pulp should be soaked for 24 hours and is an excellent feed for adding weight or for improving a horse’s condition. However, it is not suitable for horses in hard work. Above all, apply common sense when deciding upon the mix that is most appropriate to your particular horse’s temperament, lifestyle and workload. Introduce any dietary changes gradually. If you are uncertain about what your horse should be eating, talk with your veterinarian or ask to be referred to a reputable equine nutritionist. The Essential Nutrients • Carbohydrates • Fats • Proteins • Fiber • Vitamins • Minerals • Water Golden Rules for Equine Nutrition: • Clean water should be available at all times. • Feed small amounts as often as possible and stick to regular feeding times. • Feed the correct proportion of bulk and concentrates, depending on your horse’s workload. • Leave four hours between feedings. • Always provide salt ‘free choice,’ particularly during the summer and especially for horses in hard work. • Leave at least an hour between feeding and exercise. • Feed a fruit or vegetable, such as apples and carrots, every day. • Never interrupt a horse while it is eating.
Horse Health
Effective grooming not only maintains cleanliness and condition, but as a form of equine massage, also plays an important role in promoting circulation and preventing disease. Horse Health Looking after a horse is a complicated and, at times, trying experience. Part of a well horse health program includes routine vaccination and deworming. In addition to caring for the inside, however, two simple ways to maintain horse health are regular grooming and equine massage. Vaccinations Vaccinations for influenza and tetanus should be given to all horses. These should be followed up with annual boosters. A horse that is a frequent traveler to shows and competitions, for instance, should also be vaccinated against additional diseases, such as strangles. If in doubt, take precautionary measures and discuss the risks with your local vet. Worms Deworming is another vital aspect of your well horse health program. Without regular treatment all horses become hosts to worms that can cause lasting internal damage.There are many different types of worms that can infect your horse. Some worms are more prevalent in certain regions, and weather or seasonal conditions. In order to ensure that all worms are completely eradicated, it is essential to administer a broad spectrum dewormer according to the label directions. The active ingredient Ivermectin is an excellent broad-spectrum product that has proven safety and efficacy. According to the manufacturer, there is no evidence of ‘resistance’ associated with the use of Ivermectin. If you are concerned about resistance and choose to rotate dewormers, make sure you rotate between active ingredients-not brands. Active ingredients are the drugs or chemicals that actually kill the worms. If you are unsure about developing your own program ask your vet to recommend a deworming protocol. General Deworming Rules of Thumb As a matter of routine, all new arrivals on a yard should be dewormed and isolated for 24 hours. Similarly, all horses should be stabled for 24 hours following deworming to prevent contamination of pastureland. Grooming & Equine Massage for Better Horse Health Never underestimate the power of grooming! A stabled horse should be groomed daily. Field-kept horses also need regular grooming. In the case of the latter, particular care should be taken not to remove the essential oils from the animal’s coat, as the horse that lives outdoors during the winter months requires extra warmth and protection. Grooming has several functions. Effective grooming not only maintains cleanliness and condition, but as a form of equine massage, also plays an important role in promoting circulation and preventing disease.
Examining Your Horse
In order to maintain the highest level of health it is essential you discuss horse care issues such as grooming, vaccinations and deworming with your Veterinarian. Even if you fall in love with the horse, do not buy it before the animal has been thoroughly examined by a veterinarian with experience in performing purchase examinations. Long-time horse owners almost always have a veterinarian examine any animal before purchase and first-time owners should certainly do so. Your Veterinarian will check the horse for: Age General Condition – alertness, health of the eyes, ears, heart, lungs, digestive system Health of skin & coat Soundness of Musculoskeletal System – limbs evaluated, conformation abnormalities noted, and the condition of the feet and type of shoeing observed Internal & External Parasites (Worms & Ticks) In order to maintain the highest level of health it is essential you discuss horse care issues such as grooming, vaccinations and deworming with your Veterinarian. Horses are unpredictable creatures and accidents do happen! Essential first aid should always be at hand, including the important items that every standard equine first aid kit should contain.
